Economist.com Cities Guide: Sao Paulo Briefing - September 2005

News this month

Political falling-out

The money-for-votes scandal that is weakening the Workers' Party (PT) government of Luiz Inácio Lula de Silva, Brazil's president, is livening up the battle over who will run against him in next year’s presidential elections. The governor of São Paulo state, Geraldo Alckmin, officially declared his candidacy in order to head off any move by the mayor of São Paulo city, José Serra, to seek the nomination for their party, the Partido da Social Democracia Brasileira (PSDB). Mr Serra denies that he has presidential ambitions, but in the latest poll he emerged as the candidate most likely to beat Lula, ahead of Mr Alckmin and Anthony Garotinho, the ex-governor of Rio de Janeiro, who has also entered the race.

In the wings, former president Fernando Henrique Cardoso, also from the PSDB, is watching the fall-out. There’s speculation he might seek a nomination, as one report says he believes the government is in “chaos”.

Pollution solutions?

The good news is that fewer people are dying from pollution-related illnesses. The bad news is that pollution still indirectly causes eight deaths a day in São Paulo, and reduces life expectancy by two years, according to a new study by the Laboratório de Poluição Atmosférica of the University of São Paulo (USP).

The previous figures showed that pollution was causing 12 deaths a day and cutting life expectancy by three years. The improvement is attributed to a reduction in traffic congestion, owing to better public transport and limits on private cars circulating at certain times. The former mayor, Marta Suplicy, considered a London-style congestion charge but ultimately rejected it as political suicide. Her successor, Mr Serra, apparently feels the same, and a promised vehicle inspection programme has yet to be fully implemented. Cars that run on ethanol, made from sugar cane, now make up 60% of vehicles made in Brazil; their increased use may help lower pollution in the future.

Dangerous driving

During the first six months of this year two pedestrians a day were killed by traffic in São Paulo. That is an increase of 19% on the same period last year, and the biggest jump since 2000, although the number is still less than it was three years ago. The jump coincides with the introduction of fast bus lanes: bus stops are placed between opposing lines of traffic, and the buses block sight-lines for pedestrians crossing busy roads.

City officials say speed may also be a culprit. Brazil’s drivers cruise around at an average of 44kph on major roads, up from 40kph last year. The rise is primarily because buses now have more lanes to themselves. City Hall has promised to introduce more radar tracking devices to catch drivers who surpass speed limits.

Branding students

From next year, 900,000 students in São Paulo’s public school system may get uniforms carrying advertising for private companies. The move could save the city government the 70m reais ($30.4m) it budgets for uniforms, according to José Aristodemo Pinotti, the education secretary. But the news has outraged some pedagogues who fear the long-term psychological consequences of using students as walking advertisements. The Folha de São Paulo, a left-leaning newspaper, opined that if the government used the money to build more schools, the idea might have merit. Mayor Serra has already mandated a colour change in the uniforms, from red—used by his predecessor, the Workers' Party’s Ms Suplicy—to blue and yellow, the colours of his own PSDB party.

Bovine spongy forms

The Cow Parade has reached São Paulo, making it the first Latin American city to host the brightly coloured herd that has already graced the US, Europe and Asia. Decorated by a mix of local artists, architects, designers, graffiti specialists and amateur enthusiasts, the 150 life-sized beasts are part of a worldwide fundraising movement that started in Zurich in 1998. To date, it has raised $11m. The cows can be seen on the city’s highways, pavements and shopping malls until November 6th, after which they will be auctioned off for charity.

Catch if you can

September 2005

“100 Years of the Pinacoteca: Building a Collection” at the Centro Cultural FIESP

Until October 16th 2005

For its centenary celebration, the Pinacoteca do Estado, São Paulo's oldest art museum, has lined up several high-profile retrospectives—starting with Henry Moore, a British sculptor, and ending next year with Alexander Calder, an American artist. But for insight into the history of the Pinacoteca itself, go to the Centro Cultural FIESP (the cultural centre of a large organisation representing local businesses), which this month mines the museum's archive and tells its story.

Having started with 26 paintings in 1905, the Pinacoteca now holds some 6,000 works. Of these, 150 are on display in the show, arranged roughly in order of acquisition. The different rooms reflect the taste of the institute's directors: some sought to fill gaps in the collection, while others bought pieces by their contemporaries. The result, though at times confusing, is an absorbing overview of 100 years of Brazilian art (with works by Victor Brecheret, Lasar Segall, Candido Portinari and Lygia Clark). It is also an interesting exposition of how to build a collection from scratch in a country with scant tradition in the visual arts.

Centro Cultural FIESP, Galeria de Arte do SESI, Av. Paulista 1313, São Paulo. Open: Tues-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Admission: free. See the gallery's website.

More from the Sao Paulo cultural calendar