Economist.com Cities Guide: Sao Paulo Briefing - August 2006

News this month

The violence continues

In July the war raging between São Paulo’s security forces and the Primeiro Comando da Capital (PCC), an organised-crime gang, claimed 11 lives, paralysed transport and shocked a public still recovering from the May attacks, which killed over 170. Five of the most recent victims were off-duty prison guards. Gilberto Kassab, the mayor of São Paulo, deployed plain-clothes policemen on buses in an attempt to deter arsonists, who have left some 70 buses in flames. The PCC has pledged to continue attacks, promising more violence on August 13th.

The PCC is protesting against conditions in prisons where its leaders are held. After one riot in Araraquara, 273km from São Paulo, 1,443 prisoners were moved to a small courtyard for a week pending repair work, a decision that provoked fierce criticism from human-rights groups. On July 14th the federal government announced a 100m-reais ($45m) injection into São Paulo’s beleaguered prison system. Cláudio Lembo, the state governor, welcomed the money but insisted it was not enough for the state’s overcrowded jails. Federal funding for prisons has dropped by 85% since 1981.

Varig sold

On July 20th Brazil's government sold Varig, the national carrier, for $24m to VarigLog, its former cargo arm. VarigLog—recently purchased by a group of investors backed by an American private-equity firm, Matlin Patterson—pledged to invest around $500m in the troubled airline, and around $150m of that within 30 days of the sale. The new owners initially cancelled all Varig flights, but have since reinstated key domestic and international routes, on the demands of the Civil Aviation Authority. The company is now operating a fleet of just ten aircraft, but hopes to offer services to 12 Brazilian destinations and 11 foreign ones in the near future. On July 27th Varig fired 5,500 of its 9,485 employees, prompting strike threats.

The sale did not require VarigLog to assume Varig's $3.45 billion in debts. These remain with an “old Varig” (probably to be renamed Varig Nordeste), which will keep just 50 employees and one plane on the São Paulo to Porto Seguro route. The old Varig has judicial protection to hold off creditors while it restructures.

Murder most foul

A grisly tale of love and murder reached its end in court in late July, when a judge ruled that a young, middle-class woman had plotted the death of her parents. The captivating saga began in October 2002, when Marísa and Manfred von Richthofen (the great-nephew of Baron von Richthofen, the famous “Red Baron” pilot in the first world war) were bludgeoned to death with an iron bar as they slept in their smart São Paulo home. After a week-long trial that ended on July 22nd, it was confirmed that Suzane von Richthofen (who was 19 at the time) masterminded the killings, which her then lover, Daniel Cravinhos, and his brother Christian acted out. It seems the wealthy couple, who had assets estimated at 2m reais, thought that their daughter's boyfriend was too poor.

The accused all confessed to the crimes after the police started asking questions about how Christian Cravinhos had used dollars to buy a new motorcycle not long after the murders. The judge sentenced each of them to nearly 40 years in prison. Under state law, however, they can be moved to a semi-open prison in less than four years because of their ages at the time of the crime.

Mourning Stars

Two of Brazil’s leading actors have died within a week of each other in São Paulo. On July 18th Raul Cortez, who first impressed critics with his stage performances in the 1960s and 1970s, and was loved by millions for his film and television appearances in the 1980s, died from cancer at the age of 73. Two days later 120,000 people filed past his coffin at the city’s Municipal Theatre, and Mayor Gilberto Kassab spoke at his memorial service.

Then on July 22nd Gianfrancesco Guarnieri died from kidney failure at the age of 71. Mr Guarneri was born in Italy and came to Brazil when he was three. In 1958 he wrote a landmark play, “Eles não usam Black-Tie” (“They Don’t Wear Black Tie”), about the lives of workers. His most recent role was in “Belissima”, a popular soap opera.

Orchestrated competition

The first Villa-Lobos International Piano Competition, which takes place from August 14th-20th in São Paulo, is Brazil’s richest music contest. But it is being overshadowed by a fight between the organisers and the former director. After the competitors had been selected in April, Ilan Rechtman was fired for tampering with the selection process—he admitted changing some of the marks given by one of the judges. Mr Rechtman countered that John Neschling, the director of the São Paulo state symphony orchestra, who had hired him, had altered the list put forward by the selection committee in order to favour unworthy competitors, excluding three people who had already been notified of their acceptance.

On July 17th Mr Neschling issued a statement encouraging the 20 finalists to ignore the fuss and get practising. The winner of the $2.3m event gets $30,000 and a recording contract.

Catch if you can

August 2006

Cirque de Soleil's “Saltimbanco”

Until October 22nd 2006

Founded by street artists in Quebec in 1984, Cirque de Soleil has won international acclaim for its circus spectacles. The group's first visit to Brazil has generated considerable excitement—the run in São Paulo sold out within days, despite the high prices, and is expected to lure some 250,000 people. Authorities have installed traffic diversions and a special big top to deal with the crowds.

“Saltimbanco”, first performed in 1992, is Cirque de Soleil's oldest touring show. Divided into 12 parts, it uses acrobatics and the group’s signature visual treats to tell the story of a young boy's journey of self-discovery. Tickets may be available from some agencies and via the internet.

Ave Chedid Jafet at the corner of Ave Pres Juscelino Kubitschek, Vila Olímpia. Entrance: 100-400 reais. For tickets try www.ticketmaster.com.br and www.mercadolivre.com.br or phone +55 (0)11 6846-6000 (menu in Portuguese).

More from the Sao Paulo cultural calendar